The Afghan Way

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Local Vender

Afghan Carpet

Once a week we have a big market exhibit with local venders here at NKC.  There are fifty tables and tents nested in our courtyard containing colorful items such as; rugs, precious stones, jewelry, homemade DVD’s (meaning you cannot bring them through customs), fur coats, suits per individual measurement, marble cups, wooden carvings and old guns (another customs issue).  An Afghan who wants your business and is comfortable with American’s, will ofer their hand to acknowledge the American custom of greeting, however, to some it’s not a welcome exchange.  For those particular venders they want the Afghan greeting, which is to put your right hand open palm over your heart, bow your head and say hello.  Afghanistan is a harsh environment and daily existence for the Afghan’s is extremely difficult.  The result is a life span of 40 years old, and that’s considered old.  Religion is the pillar of their culture and surely the measure of their existence.  They pray five times a day.  The Koran is the pride of a family.  For most the Koran has been in the family much longer then we have existed as a country.  Afghan’s protect the Koran as we protect our original Declaration of Independence.  The conduct in which Afghan’s view men, women, children and dogs is different, I’m new to this place but it doesn’t take long to observe some of our polar differences.  Men and women exist in very separate spheres.  Men work and socialize together and women are seldom seen in public.  Men have affectionate relationships with each other.  It’s not unusual on Market Day to see a blanket and pillow set on the ground in the corner of our courtyard for them to comfort and hold each other touring the day.  Women exist for a man to produce children, to sire a child is easy, subsequently children don’t have much worth, and a dog is not a pet.

i like looking people in the eye, doing so gives me a glimpse to their soul.  Although my perspective is limited, a simple mania like eye contact comes with multiple implications.  And if not respected can get you hurt, as some female DOD contractors and soldiers have experienced.  For the most part I keep to myself and try not to make eye contact until more is learned.  Eye contact from a woman can be an insult, with that said, I’m in a dilemma for a reason that at the market some Afghan venders have been taught U.S. female soldiers have money (see our rank on our uniforms).  And know American women are comfortable with the idea of shopping and spending money!  To those venders if an American woman doesn’t make eye contact it can be perceived as an insult.  Yes, this is difficult stage for me, however, there have been instances I’ve been successful Without being insulting.  This is a picture of me negotiating on a rug purchase.  He and his son are waiting for me to choose what one I like for my home.  They know my rank and are expecting me to purchase from them one of these beautiful carpets.  Godfrey, what one do you like the shorter or longer one.  Gotta buy one honey…it’s a cultural thing (LOL).  These particular venders asked me  for a copy of these photos to hang in their shop.  (Can someone make a copy on regular paper and sen it to me?).  This will help them with business, as things are slow with the current political climate knowing spring marks the beginning of hostilities.  I know Vermonter’s are anxious for snow to melt and spring to start showing itself, but her spring means the beginning of the fighting season.  We brace ourselves for what the insurgency has been planning over the winter.  Security has hampered their efforts….although you did read about the bomb explosion when Chuck Hagel came to visit.

P.S. in the world of miniature; My “Micro Mini Condo” I have the bottom bunk, and because of rank, no one has the top bunk.  My roommate has the exact same small space on the other side of the room.  Our bunk beds are divided by two wardrobe closets placed in the middle of tiny micro mini room.  It’s all good…a far cry better amenities at my last home of residence, known affectionately as , “the shack”.  Amy,  I have the shack picture hanging on my mirror reflective of times past!  Hey, in Manhattan living in 350sq.ft or less is a popular trend…living the trend in Kabul!

 

I thank those who have written, sent pictures or packages:  Because I work everyday with little “me time”, it’s difficult to keep up and write people individually.  I thank my family; Godfrey, Logan, Cooper, Scott, Donna, Cheryl, Greg, Bruce , Kathy, Elizabeth, Alan, Kathi Renaud, Rachel Hill: Also Debbie Gassaway Hayward, Amy Wall, Stacey Eldridge, Cor Trowbridge, Jackie Harris, Linda Griffin, Eric Libardoni, Debbie & Todd Rancourt, Tim Johnson, Robert Macaraeg, George Carrigan, Tim Coon, Glade Taylor, Bahman Mahdavi, Johanna Gardener, Stacey Metzger, Alice Charkes, John McKenna, Maude Lonergan, Remi Demascus, Amelia Lawrence Darrow, John & Peter Duff, Dede Cummings, Elizabeth McLarney, Jay & JoEllen Falk, Sherryl Libardoni, Michaela Harlow, Max Foldeak, Women’s Hockey team, Hatfield Brownie Troop 40077 (Beth Glannini) and the Brattleboro Community, thank you  for your support.  Please know what you do for my family or me, I hold dear!

Best Regards,

LTC Christie Turner

 

Micro Mini Condo

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Hello Everyone,

Looking at a map of Afghanistan you can see Kabul city is tucked at the foothills of the Hindu Kush Mountain Range.  NKC (New Kabul Compound) is at 6,000′ elevation and is a small place, specifically speaking about half the size of the high school. The showers are the best and the cuisine is enjoyable.  In the basement of one of the office buildings we have a weight room several times bigger then BUHS’s.  Our living and work space is small.  I call my room the micro mini condo of Kabul.  I’m happy to report my “Micro Mini Condo”, no matter how small, far exceeds “The Shack”.   My roommate, Nancy, is from Canada.  Quebec to be exact, strangely enough she doesn’t like hockey, but not all is lost, she has a great personality and is a dedicated solider. Her  husband and two boys live in the city close to Chateao Frantenac, Citadelle de Quebec and lle d’Orleans (sp).  Nancy has many years in the Canadian military and is currently working with Afghan’s at the local Hospital/school.  She manages her Canadian colleagues who teaches basic principles of medical care to the Afghan’s.  Nancy leaves the compound often to travel to the hospital/school.  Any departure from here means wearing full battle rattle, heavy to wear, however, no complaints.  The hospital is four floors and was built years back by the Russian’s.  The facility is often full, from what  I understand,  their ailments wouldn’t necessarily warrant hospital admission in our country.  The Canadian medical team has 5 doctors, 2 dentist, doctor’s physician and nurses.  The hospital has four operating rooms, with that said the Doc’s contribute in the direction of training their counter parts.  They don’t do surgery, however, once an emergency occurred and the Doc’s stepped in to help.  I must say, a significant contribution by the Doctors to be in Kabul, understanding they too carry a weapon and full battle rattle.  The Canadian medical team principles are born of respect to the Afghan way, balanced with supportive partnership to improve health services and medical care to local population in the city.  Similarly to what the American’s try and accomplish with Afghan security.  Departing the gate is in fact plucky….Things are dangerous and events occur often, with that said we have great force protection, meaning the right people keeping us safe.

NKC

I put a few pictures on facebook if you want to take a peek, nothing great just a few photos to mark my journey into theater. The process from beginning to end took from February 16th (Ft Dix) United States to Feb 28th landing at NKC (new Kabul compound) Afghanistan. I liked the freedom of moving around figuring out how to get from plane, bus or helicopter place to place. The real challenge was asking a complete stranger at odd hours each night or early morning to help me carry one of my four duffel bags. I took a genuine interest in people; listening to their experiences, some who had arrived recently like myself, others nearing the end of the tour, others leaving or coming back from R&R, either way, excited about reunion with families. These people who were once a stranger now became a quittance. Meeting and talking with people soothed the loneliness of my journey and open opportunities of coordinating peoples help. They help move me to the next stop either with knowledge of the system or physically helping me the ball and chain of all my bags. One place I stayed four days was hell, my lowest point as some of you read in my last email. I was staying at this base (hell) that two days earlier aircraft were damaged on the very runway I landed, while there I had one day of indirect fire close to where I was staying (“The Shack”), not saying that bothered me. What did bother me was not being able to tell who was friendly and who hated you, ironically they all carry a gun (except the locals who cook our meals and clean our buildings)! It bothered me being cold and feeling vulnerable in my shack… defiantly low points (subsequent emails have video footage).
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March 1st

Please excuse misspelled words and the rough grammar it’s a timed event before relinquishing the computer to someone else. I type so fast and don’t bother re-reading anything, put tired into the formula and sometimes it doesn’t read well. Miss not playing hockey and watching the high school team, was so very happy to see you and others on my short stay in Brattleboro. I went over to housing office last night and mentioned my concerns being the only one housed in my area and how miserably cold it’s in my shack. There is a documentary out call Invisible War, asked if they saw the movie …it is changing military policy for the protection of women in uniform. I’m happy to report they put flood lights around my block of shacks and came and fixed the heat. They check in a couple of soldiers a few buildings down. Progress, thank god. The post is host to many people beside US army, navy air forces, marines forces, we have Egypt, France, Pakistan Tajikistan, Afghanistan, contractors up the gauzzue, (multi coalition contractors at that) and DOD (this is open source).
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